Sarah De Winne Welcome to our insider’s guide to Les 9 Écluses de Fonseranes in Béziers! Are you planning a trip to this part of Occitanie in the South of France? Do you want to know from locals if the nine locks are worth visiting? If so, you are in the right place!
Les 9 Écluses de Fonseranes form an impressive water staircase on the Canal du Midi. These nine locks are an engineering marvel that show the ingenuity and skill of generations past. It’s a peaceful place to watch boats navigate the locks and walk or cycle along attractive tree-lined canal paths.
As locals living near Béziers, we wrote this guide to help you. It provides an insider’s perspective on what to expect from a visit to Les 9 Écluses de Fonseranes. However, this guide is more than just a collection of facts about the locks! It includes our local insights, recommendations and tips to enhance your experience and make the most of your time and resources.
Overview of Les 9 Écluses de Fonseranes
The first thing to know is that the écluses are one of the Grands Sites of Occitanie. As a result, they are a popular place to visit in Béziers all year round. We have enjoyed visiting the nine locks in the height of summer, in spring and in the autumn!
During the hot summer months, you can certainly expect to see more péniches (canal boats) navigating the locks. However, the colour of autumn leaves reflected in the canals are equally a sight to behold when walking or cycling along the towpaths.
Since the nine locks form part of the Canal du Midi, they are also classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. When we travel, we always visit local UNESCO sites to learn about their significance for a country’s cultural and natural heritage. Read on to discover how the nine locks are rooted in the local history of Béziers and Occitanie.
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Who Built the Écluses de Fonseranes?
Interestingly, both the Canal du Midi and Les 9 Écluses de Fonseranes were designed and built by the same man, Pierre-Paul Riquet. In fact, Riquet was an engineer and canal-builder who was born in Béziers (a Biterrois), hence the local significance of the Nine Locks of Fonseranes.
In short, Riquet designed the man-made canals of the Canal du Midi (formerly the Canal Royal) to connect the Atlantic with the Mediterranean during the reign of Louis XIV. His legacy is an impressive 240 km of navigable canals between Toulouse and Sète. However, he faced some challenges along the way!
Why Are there 9 Écluses at Béziers?
In order to overcome different elevation levels at Béziers, Riquet designed a unique staircase lock consisting of 9 écluses. Built between 1678-1680, Riquet’s engineering masterpiece enabled boats to ascend/descend 21.5 metres over a length of 312 metres! He named his design ‘Neptune’s Staircase’.
What You Can Expect to See at Les 9 Écluses de Fonseranes
1. A Unique Staircase Lock (also known as L’Octuple)
Of course, the star attraction at Les 9 Écluses de Fonseranes is the nine locks! It’s truly an impressive (and rare) sight to see a water staircase of locks stretching up a sloping incline!
One of the things we particularly like about visiting this site is the fact that you can get so close to these working locks. From this vantage point, you can see that the écluses are in fact one lock (sometimes referred to as L’Octuple) consisting of 8 oval basins and 9 lock gates in a row.
You can stand right beside the écluses as the boats negotiate their 30-minute journey through the staircase of locks. There is plenty of space for everyone to see these 300-year-old locks in action! To witness the sight and sound of water rushing from one chamber to another is an unforgettable experience.
TOP TIP: The closest you can get to the 9 Écluses is by standing on the pathway (rampe des écluses) alongside the locks on the side of the Visitor Centre. Although there is an elevated garden on the other side of the locks, you cannot get as close. This is because access is reserved for employees working on the locks.
2. A Curious Mechanical Boat Lift (La Pente d’Eau)
Behind the nine locks, look out for another slope with an intriguing blue machine at the top. This is La Pente d’Eau that was designed by Jean Aubert and opened in 1983.
The purpose of La Pente d’Eau was to speed up the transport of goods by bypassing the 9 locks. It also enabled larger barges to navigate the different levels of elevation between the Canal du Midi and the River Orb.
In essence, La Pente D’Eau is a lift for boats! Impressively, the machine enabled boats to go up or down the hill in 6 minutes rather than 45 minutes through Riquet’s original lock system.
Despite being no longer in use today, it’s an interesting contraption that we had never seen before. As a result, it’s another fascinating part of the technological and historical heritage of Béziers on the site of the 9 Écluses.
TOP TIP: After visiting La Pente d’Eau, don’t head straight back to the car park. If you have time, continue to follow the canal until you reach Le Pont-Canal. This is the bridge that enables boats on the Canal du Midi to cross the River Orb.
3. Attractive Walking and Cycling Trails With Stunning Views
We were really impressed by the attractive redevelopment of the whole site at Les 9 Écluses de Fonseranes. In addition to visiting the nine locks, it’s a beautiful place on the Canal du Midi to relax, walk and cycle. The broad canal towpaths are flat and lined with trees, so perfect for walking and cycling.
From the site, there are also stunning unobstructed views of the Béziers cathedral (Cathédrale Saint-Nazaire et Saint Celse) and the city’s old bridge (Pont Vieux). There are also lovely spots to enjoy a picnic. These include the shady Esplanade Notre-Dame at the bottom of the locks and the designated picnic area.
Les 9 Écluses de Fonseranes is also home to a Mediterranean garden! There is a free botanic trail around the site that showcases some of the beautiful Mediterranean plants, shrubs, and trees. (Follow this link to access an English version of the botanic trail).
TOP TIP: Don’t miss the parts of the site that are on the opposite side of the locks and the Canal du Midi! To reach them, there is a suspended pedestrian bridge (passerelle). There is also a glass lift to help visitors with reduced mobility and families with pushchairs to enjoy these areas.
How to Get to Les 9 Écluses de Fonseranes?
You can reach Les 9 Écluses de Fonseranes by car or by public transport. As locals, we prefer to arrive on foot or by bike via the canal paths stretching from Béziers to the nine locks. We feel this is the best way to appreciate the canals and enjoy views of Béziers cathedral and the Pont Vieux.
By Car: 9 Écluses Parking
If you decide to drive, there is a large 400 place car park on site. However, be warned that there is a flat fee for parking depending on the season! The first 15 minutes are free, but after that the fee is the same whether you park for one hour or all day!
To give you an idea of prices, the cost of parking is 7€ from April 1st to October 31st and 4€ from November 1st to March 31st. When we visited the locks last April, we were shocked when we had to pay 7€ for a quick visit that lasted less than hour!
If you do decide to pay to park on site, the car park is open from 0730 until 2330 and you are eligible for a free audio guide (available from the Visitor Centre). Parking is also free if you have purchased a City Card Béziers.
It is worth knowing that the start of the nine locks is not right next to the car park. You need to follow the rampway from the car park towards the Visitor Centre.
By prior arrangement, an electrical vehicle can collect visitors who are parked in the disabled bays that are situated at the bottom of the locks. Please note that this is not the same location as the main car park!
TOP TIP: To save money and enjoy more of the Canal du Midi, be like a local and walk or cycle to the locks. Park for free at the Parking Rue Renée Boyer in Béziers and enjoy a walk to the 9 Écluses along tree-lined canals with stunning views.
Public Transportation to Les 9 Écluses de Fonseranes
Public transportation to the 9 Écluses is basically limited to two options: a bus or the tourist train.
By Bus
However, catching a bus to the 9 Écluses is a bit tricky as seats must be reserved by telephone or online in advance.
In case you want to explore this option, the bus route serving the nine locks is the TAD R2. To help with the terminology, TAD means Transport à la Demande (transportation on demand) and R2 is the name of the line serving the 9 Écluses.
The R2 line (Anatole France to Mas de Montflourès) connects various stops in the centre of Béziers with the 9 Écluses. To find further information and timetables, follow the link for the TAD R2 bus.
By Tourist Train (Le Petit Train)
If you intend to visit the 9 Écluses with children or grandchildren, it is fun to take the tourist train! The tourist train is called Le Petit Train and runs between the 9 Écluses and the centre of Béziers.
Le Petit Train de Béziers departs from the Allées Paul Riquet and offers a 50-minute guided tour of the city in 9 different languages. It is possible to get off at the 9 Écluses to visit the locks and avoid tired little legs!
Equally, if you arrive at the 9 Écluses by car, why not visit the locks then take Le Petit Train to Béziers? You can visit the old part of the city including La Cathédrale de Saint-Nazaire et Saint Celse and return to the nine locks on a later train.
Le Petit Train runs between the beginning of April until the beginning of November. Departure times vary depending on the season. The price of Le Petit Train for adults (anyone over 12) is 8€, children aged 4-12 is 5€ and under 4s go free.
TOP TIP: It is worth knowing that a journey on Le Petit Train is included if you have already purchased a City Card Béziers.
Local Tips and Recommendations
1. Park for Free and Walk to Les 9 Écluses
Our best insider tip is to avoid parking in the main car park. Instead, park for free at the Parking Rue Renée Boyer in Béziers. From here, there is a charming walk alongside the Canal du Midi to the site of the 9 Écluses that should not be missed!
Walking along the canals is relaxing and picturesque, but it also adds more to your visit! The walk takes you across the Orb Aqueduct (or Le Pont-Canal) that carries the Canal du Midi across the River Orb. There are also stunning views of Béziers Cathedral, the Pont Vieux, and the city’s ramparts.
Finally, approaching the 9 Écluses on foot along the winding canals builds anticipation. When you finally arrive at the foot of the locks via the canals, it’s a breath-taking sight!
2. Download Guidebooks in English
Although there is a Visitor Centre on site, we recommend that you download the free English guidebooks and trails before your visit.
This is for one simple reason. The guides contain a lot of useful information about how the locks work and their significance. Doing some reading in advance may help you get the most out of your visit and appreciate the site more.
3. Pop into the Visitor Centre (La Maison de Site)
The Visitor Centre at Les 9 Écluses de Fonseranes is in the old inn (Le Coche d’Eau). Originally, bargemen and horses slept in this building but today it houses a helpful Tourist Office (Office de Tourisme).
Here, you can hire audio guides for a small fee (2€). They explain the history of the écluses and the Canal du Midi.
Alternatively, you can watch a short (14 minutes) immersive film that brings to life the history of the 9 Écluses. Tickets are available online (3€ for adults and 2€ for children aged 6-12, free entry for under 5s).
A treasure hunt pack is also available for children and grandchildren!
4. Enjoy a Bateaux du Midi Cruise
During your visit to the 9 Écluses, you could also take to the water to enjoy a more authentic experience! Why not book a cruise on the Canal du Midi on a péniche (barge) to enhance your visit? It is even possible to navigate the nine locks from top to bottom!
5. Picnic by the Canal du Midi
Although there is a restaurant on site, the 9 Écluses de Fonseranes is a perfect picnic spot. There are stunning views and plenty of benches alongside the canal and in the gardens. What could be better than a lazy picnic in the South of France sunshine watching the boats go by?
6. Visit After Dark
Our final insider tip is to visit the 9 Écluses in the cool of the evening. At nightfall, the locks and buildings come to life with lights and images. These give a completely different perspective of the site and add a touch of romance to the Canal du Midi!
Is it Worth Visiting Les 9 Écluses de Fonseranes?
Yes, it is worth visiting Les 9 Écluses de Fonseranes to discover a unique staircase of locks. This feat of 17th Century engineering on the Canal du Midi at Béziers is an attractive UNESCO World Heritage Site. Here, you can enjoy the outdoors and canals all year round on foot, by bike or by boat.
We hope you liked this article and made you want to visit the 9 locks of Fonseranes. If you have already visited this site, or if you plan to do so soon, do not hesitate to leave us a comment below. We will be delighted to read your impressions, your anecdotes, your advice or your questions. Your opinion matters to us, and it allows us to improve our articles and offer you quality content. So, get to your keyboard! 😊
