Sarah De Winne Nestled in the heart of the Aveyron department in Occitanie, the village of Roquefort-sur-Soulzon is famous worldwide for its blue cheese. Recently, we had the chance to join a Roquefort Société caves guided tour whilst staying with a local friend. In this review, we share our experience.
Although our friend’s family farm is now a successful goat farm, it once supplied sheep’s milk to Roquefort. Of course, this personal connection made the tour even more special. It gave us a unique perspective on the centuries-old cheese-making tradition that thrives within the Combalou limestone mountain.
The Village of Roquefort-sur-Soulzon
Even though we didn’t spend much time in the village itself, Roquefort-sur-Soulzon left a lasting impression. Nestled at the foot of the Combalou limestone cliff, the village is picturesque and is home to a surprising number of Roquefort cheese producers.
It was fascinating to see just how many different caves and brands operate here. Apparently, during the cheese producing months, the whole village fills with the unmistakable smell of Roquefort!
To gain a bird’s-eye view of the village and the surrounding landscape, we took a short, steep walk above the Société restaurant. At 650 metres above sea level, we found an orientation table and the ruins of an 11th-century church.
From this vantage point, we could see how the village clings to the limestone cliff that hides the rich Roquefort cheese-making traditions that define this part of Aveyron.
Roquefort Société Caves Guided Tour
The guided tour of the Roquefort Société caves takes you deep underground in the Combalou limestone mountain. It’s a unique opportunity to experience first-hand the cool, humid environment that has been used for centuries to age Roquefort cheese.
Even if you visit outside the production season (like us!), it is fascinating to explore the underground caves and learn about the history and craftsmanship behind this iconic blue cheese!
Start of the Visit
The tour begins in an underground cinema room with an immersive film projection titled “Aux Origines des Caves Société”. This clearly explains the geographical formation of the caves and the story of how Roquefort cheese was discovered. However, we will let you discover the legend for yourself!
Immediately after the film, our guide shared a huge map of the layout of the Société caves. This really helped us to orientate ourselves and to understand the scale of the network of underground caves.
Discovering the Fleurines
One of the most fascinating parts of the tour was learning about the fleurines. These natural air channels in the limestone rock create the ideal airflow and humidity for aging Roquefort cheese. The fleurines are an essential part of Roquefort’s unique environment.
During the guided tour, we were able to discover several fleurines and to experience first-hand their power of natural ventilation. Incredibly, the first fleurine that we encountered was over 1 km long!
Later in the tour, another unique experience was to walk through one of the narrow fleurines.
Feeling brave, I even plunged my hand into holes in the rock face to feel the sensation of cold air rushing from deep within the mountain!
Learning About the Roquefort Cheese Making Process
In another underground chamber, we watched a second interesting film to understand more about the process of making Société Roquefort cheese. By now, it had become pretty cold underground and Olivier was wrapped up warm!
This film was beautifully shot and clearly explained the Roquefort cheese-making process from start to finish.
Although the film was narrated in French, there were English subtitles. Some quick interesting take aways from the film included:
- Only Lacaune sheep milk from within a 120 km radius of the village are used to make Société Roquefort cheese.
- 3 different types of penicillium are cultured in the Société caves from a microscopic airborne fungus that occurs naturally. Don’t worry, it’s apparently harmless to visitors!
- There are only 3 Société Maître Affineurs who possess the skill and expertise to control the cheese-making process and to decide when the Roquefort is ripe! Hopefully, they have some apprentices for the future!
Discovering the Oldest Société Cave
After the film we had the opportunity to wander around and admire Cave Reynes which is the oldest of the Société caves. In the past, Caves Reynes stored the maturing Roquefort cheese. It is a magnificent space that strongly resembles a cathedral.
Experiencing the Cheese Cellars
Another highlight of the tour was exploring three levels of the eleven storeys of cellars! Here, penicillium is added to the cheeses which are are then stored on their sides on oak shelving.
Unfortunately, there was no Roquefort cheese maturing in the cellars when we visited in mid-August. Instead, replica cheeses were on display.
Although disappointed that we couldn’t experience the smell of Roquefort permeating the cellars, we could still appreciate their size and layout. As the cellars were in the process of being cleaned, we also learned about this natural process using salt.
Personal Tip: To see real cheese maturing in the Société Roquefort caves, plan your visit between January and the end of July. Be aware that outside of this season, the cheeses on display are representations.
Tasting Société Roquefort AOP Cheese
At the end of the tour, we huddled around simple wooden tables in the boutique area to enjoy what we had all been looking forward to – the cheese tasting! Fortunately, we had the chance to sample all three Roquefort cheeses made by Société:
- Caves Abeille (green label)
- Cave des Templiers (black label)
- Caves Baragnaudes (gold label) – This is my personal favourite as it’s tangy with a long-lasting flavour!
Helpfully, our knowledgeable guide suggested the order in which to taste them. We also had the option to taste the Roquefort with a pain d’épices (a type of gingerbread) which worked surprisingly well!
Certainly, the tasting was a memorable way to end the visit, bringing together everything we’d learned about the caves, the fleurines and the cheesemaking process.
Société Shop and Exhibition
After the cheese tasting, we were free to visit the Société shop which sells all three varieties of Société Roquefort cheese along with other souvenirs.
Beyond the shop, there is also an interesting exhibition that explains more of the history of Société’s world-famous Roquefort cheese.
Personal Tip: Don’t miss the fabulous display of vintage Société advertising posters near the shop that document the marketing of Roquefort cheese over the years.
Practical Information for Visitors
Opening Hours & Tickets
Roquefort Société cave tour tickets start at €7.50 for adults and €4.50 for children aged 7-15, with children under 6 free. There are three types of visits available:
- Le Souffle des Saveurs – The basic hour long guided tour (the one we experienced), available throughout the day. A tasting of all 3 Roquefort AOP cheeses is included.
- Le Souffle des Créations – A more premium option that combines the cave visit with a tasting of all 3 Roquefort AOP cheeses paired with different ‘flavours’ and wine. This option is offered once a day.
- Le Souffle des Caves – The most exclusive tour with one of the three Société Maître Affineurs. This tour also includes a tasting of all 3 Roquefort AOP cheeses paired with different ‘flavours’ and wine. However, this option is only available in July and August.
Conveniently, the caves are open all year round. However, booking in advance is recommended, especially during peak summer months. This will ensure that you avoid disappointment and secure your preferred tour time.
How to Get There
You can easily visit the Roquefort caves in Roquefort-sur-Soulzon from Millau by car, with a journey of about 40 minutes. There is a good amount of free on-site parking, although camping cars are not permitted.
If you are staying in Hérault or Aude, it is perfectly possible to make a day trip to the Roquefort Société caves from Béziers (approximately 1hr 30 minute drive) or Narbonne (approximately 2 hour drive) via the A75.
Tips for your Visit
- Visit between January and the end of July to see and smell actual Roquefort cheese maturing in the caves.
- Wear comfortable shoes as the cave floors can be damp and uneven.
- Wear something warm as the caves are naturally cold (around 10°C), even in the summer!
- Avoid bringing a pushchair as there are many steps within the caves.
- Bring your telephone or camera to capture memories of the visit. Both photographs and videos are permitted inside.
- Leave animals at home as they are not allowed in the caves.
- Consider enjoying lunch in one of the two Société restaurants that are open daily: La Cave des Saveurs (closed Tuesdays) and Les Fleurines (closed Wednesdays). However, reservations are recommended.
Other Things to Do Near Roquefort-sur-Soulzon
If you’re planning a visit to the Roquefort caves, there are plenty of other things to do near Roquefort-sur-Soulzon and nearby villages in Aveyron:
Millau and the Viaduct
The town of Millau is located on the River Tarn and is famous for the Millau Viaduct, an architectural marvel spanning the Tarn valley. A must-see for visitors exploring the region. (40 minutes by car from Roquefort-sur-Soulzon.)
Peyre
Peyre is one of France’s most beautiful villages. This village is perched on a cliff with cobbled streets and stunning views over the Tarn valley. Ideal for a short walk or photography. (30 minutes by car from Roquefort-sur-Soulzon.)
Brousse-le-Château
Brousse-le-Château is another of France’s most beautiful villages with a riverside castle. Perfect if you love exploring picturesque villages in France. (50 minutes by car from Roquefort-sur-Soulzon.)
Gorges du Tarn (Saint-Chély-du-Tarn)
The Gorges du Tarn are a haven for nature lovers, offering hiking, canoeing and scenic viewpoints along the Tarn river. Saint-Chély-du-Tarn is a charming stop in the heart of the gorges. (1 hour 30 minutes by car from Roquefort-sur-Soulzon.)
Le Truel and Saint-Rome de Tarn
The small riverside villages of Le Truel and Saint-Rome de Tarn offer scenic riverside walks and insight into rural life in Aveyron. (20-30 minutes by car from Roquefort-sur-Soulzon.)
Saint-Affrique
The town of Saint-Affrique is a lively place to visit with markets, cafes, and historic architecture. (20 minutes by car.)
Is It Worth Visiting the Roquefort Société Caves?
Yes, it is absolutely worth visiting the Roquefort Société Caves. They offer a unique insight into centuries-old cheese-making traditions in the Combalou mountain. Even if you visit outside the maturing season, the immersive films, underground chambers, fleurines and guided explanations make it a memorable experience.
The cheese tasting at the end is a highlight of the visit, letting you sample the complete range of Société Roquefort cheeses. With easy access from Millau, affordable tickets and nearby picturesque villages like Peyre and Brousse-le-Château, a guided visit to the Société Roquefort Caves is well worth adding to your Aveyron itinerary.
